I'm originally from Montana and have relatives scattered throughout the state. My grandma turned 90 this summer so we planned a birthday party / family reunion in Simms Montana - try to find it on a map, I dare you.
My wife's cousin was getting married the following weekend in Chico Hot Springs (also in Montana). So we scheduled a nice 9 day vacation up north (I now live in Denver, CO).
Since I didn't have another family obligation until Friday evening, I had a couple of days to ride a portion of the Great Divide Route or so I thought....
It turns out that one of the many fires in Montana (38 million dollars has been spent fighting fires there this summer) was very near part of the trail I was going to start at in Ovando, Montana. Air quality was poor to say the least so I ended up trimming down my original plan to a one day ride from Helena to Butte.
I had my wife drop me off in Helena and I rode the section into Butte.
At 6:30 am my Niner Air 9 and I started the long 25 mile climb up Grizzly Gulch and over Park Lake. I have actually ridden the first part of this section 40 or 50 times in the past. I used to live in Helena in the early 90’s.
My apartment was right at the mouth of Grizzly Gulch. A typical ride then was a 6 - 7 mile loop going up the gulch and returning back over Mount Helena; a bit different then the 50-60 mile rides I do now.
I have very fond memories of Helena - I met my wife there.
The climb to Park Lake is steady, gaining roughly 4300 feet over 25 miles on a gravel road, traversing through forest and passing by the occasional house, cabin and ranch.
Once you reach Park Lake the route turns onto, what the map calls a narrow jeep trail, it's actually more suitable for a 4-wheel ATV. There are rocks and roots scattered throughout this section making for a steep technical route which went on far too long. This is an intense section showcasing how beautiful yet rugged Montana is. It definitely feels like you’re in the middle of nowhere riding through this part of the route. As luck would have it, this is the section I would suck my chain between my frame and chain-ring.
I spent half an hour trying to get this situation remedied.
First I took off the big and middle chain-ring - no luck.
Next I tried to split the chain at the PowerLink (should of done this in the first place) - No Luck again. I tried pushing that little friggin’ link together till I was blue in the face - I could not get it to separate.
So I got out my multi-tool and pushed the pin out of one of the links - my chain was finally free.
I put the chain back together, gave it a lube and was on my way. I pedaled up and off the jeep trail and onto a gravel road which snaked its way all the way down to the small town of Basin. This was my reward for the long climb I just endured. It was fast and scenic, passing by abandoned mines, wide open meadows and crossing flowing creeks.
The good feeling ended once I got to Basin.
As soon as I turned onto the frontage road that would take me the final 32 miles into Butte, I was nearly blown off my bike.
The headwinds were brutal.
I was looking forward to this mostly flat section of the ride.
It was looking to be not-so-fun.
I pushed on eeking out 8-10 mph on this flat section. I usually drive through this area at 75 mph, letting the scenery whizz by in a blur. This day I definitely wished for a bit of that speed. I definitely had time to take in the awesome Montana scenery along Interstate 15. I slowly made my way by a small wetland, watching large grey cranes awkwardly fly off as I kept on pedaling. I turned onto an old railway section that led to a train tunnel. I saw some graffiti in the tunnel but not the signs I was hoping for...
...Possibly a message from a GDR rider that had come before me - something like: I KNOW HOW YOU'RE FEELING, KEEP GOING.
I finally made it to the paved frontage road which would take me into Butte. I was exhausted. The wind was still hammering down on me. I had to stop a few times and stretch my legs, fatigue was setting in. I also ran out of water - I knew I should of filled up in Basin.
I realized right there, I still had much training ahead of me if I was actually going to pull off all 2490 miles of this route in 2008.
The final 6 miles into Butte is actually on I-15. This is a steep descent into town. I should have been coasting down this Mountain doing 35-40 mph - in my tuck I was doing a whopping 22 mph.
Ever hear of the quote by Daniel Behrman from The Man Who Loved Bicycles? He says, "You never have the wind with you - either it is against you or you're having a good day." Let's just say my day wasn't so good for this section of the ride.
Once in Butte I knew exactly the place I was going to eat and re-hydrate. Deep fried pork chops unique to Butte are good eats. Because they treat everyone like a local and make the best pork chop sandwiches, Pork Chop John's is the place to have one. Order a pork chop loaded deluxe sandwich like I did and you won't be disappointed.
All in all it was a great training ride in beautiful big sky country. Its good to know I still have 314 days left to train for GDR 2008.
...Now that’s livin' the good life.
