Great Divide Route Colorado: Frisco to Hartsel


Those things that hurt, instruct.  -Benjamin Franklin

“Hartsel?” You may be asking yourself.  “I thought you were going to Salida?”  Well that was the original plan.  I actually met up with my old nemesis... read on. 

My family and I stayed in Frisco Colorado, 5 miles up the road from Silverthorne.  The plan was they would hang out in Frisco and Breckenridge for most of the day, and then pick me up in Salida about the time it would be getting dark.  It was all perfectly planned.   

I started out in the dark, it was incredibly calm, tranquil and cool; about 40 degrees.

I was wearing:  winter gloves, bib knickers with tights over them, jersey, arm warmers, wind jacket, skull cap and toe covers on my shoes.

I was ready for the forecasted day; mostly cloudy, 40's in the a.m. and warming to low 60's in the afternoon.

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As I started to climb above Breckenridge an amazing rainbow appeared out of nowhere.  WOW, this is a great sign.  I was smiling to myself thinking - It is going to be a GOOD RIDE; I must be livin' the GOOD LIFE!

I was feeling great; the climb up Boreas Pass did not seem like much of a climb at all, even though it is the highest Continental Divide Crossing (11,482 feet) on the entire Great Divide Route from Canada to Mexico.  

It seemed easy – nothing to it. 

I was thinking to myself, wow this section of the GDR is actually going to be easy, according to the elevation guide on the Adventure Cycling Association maps, the other side of Boreas Pass is mostly flat to Salida.  This is going to be a section of the route I could make up some time if I needed to during GDR 2008.

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My subconscious suddenly spoke up and said, “Did you just say it’s going to be easy? You fool do you know what you just did?”  

“What?" I said back.  Not the question kind of what but the what are you talking about kind of what.  “This is going to be fine, nothing to it.”  I told the little voice.  It just shook its head at me.

 

I was hoping to capture some amazing pictures of the fall colors, but the cloud cover kept the yellows from exploding against the green pine like I was hoping.  




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Then I came to this interesting sign that read, WINDY POINT.  


Anyone would agree, yes, it is indeed a sign - two words etched into a piece of wood posted on the side of the road. 

But it was also a sign of what was to come.  

At the time I was not aware that Boreas was named in honor of the god of the north wind.  Well, I think I pissed him off with my earlier snide remark about how easy this whimpy pass was to climb.  Either that or my little voice went and told on me.  

Because on the other side of Boreas Pass the winds started to pick up and got stronger…

            and stronger…

                               and stronger. Check out the movies at the bottom of page.

33 miles into my ride things started to change.  I went from the Good Life Cyclist to, well, something else.  I had a good amount of energy, so I sucked it up and trudged forward into 30 mph headwinds.

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The dotted line in the middle graph shows gusting wind on 9/29 & 9/30 between 30 and 50 mph

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As I covered mile after mile the wind was not relenting, in fact it felt like it was getting worse.  I finally made it to highway 24. Only 4.5 miles into Hartsel, thank god.  The map says, narrow and potentially busy along the ensuing stretch of highway.

Yea, no kidding. 

 

Once I turned onto the highway the headwind turned into a crosswind.  Trying to keep a safe line on the non-existent shoulder was nearly impossible.  Imagine leaning into 35 mph gusts, trying to keep upright as a large truck zooms by a foot away from you causing a brief blockage from the wind then a split second later creating a big vacuum sucking you toward the road then the 30 mph cross wind blowing you back again into the weeds and soft gravel.  AAHHH! Damn you Boreas – God of this horrible nasty demoralizing wind. I'm sorry. I'm so sorry I belittled you.

I could see Hartsel in the distance; I just could not seem to get to it.  At one point I started walking along the side of the road to give my legs and butt a break.  I was walking at 3.3 mph. I got back on my bike and was doing 6 mph, hey almost twice as fast.  I guess you could look at that as a positive… right?

I finally rolled into Hartsel, already with the decision to call my wife and have her pick me up here instead of Salida.  I grabbed a burger and a beer and waited.  Apparently the state wide smoking ban in public places does not apply to Hartsel.  The bartender and four locals where silhouetted at the bar in a haze of cigarette smoke hacking and coughing at each other.  I must have been an interesting topic for them sitting there covered in spandex from head to toe.  My wife rolled in about an hour later.

What would I have done during the GDR 2008 when having my wife come bail my sorry ass out is not an option?  I found out there was a hot springs near by; that would have been a good place to relax and wait for the wind to die down. What if the wind does not die down?  Well, I guess you suck it up and hit the trail or wait long enough and put in some night miles guided by a trusty light. 

Taking ol' Ben's advice, what have I learned from the pain of the experience:

Pain is temporary. Stretch, take care of yourself, create a positive attitude and keep going.

Don't piss off Boreas.

The straps on bib knickers can really chafe your nipples on long rides, so wear something under them. 

During the Great Divide Race 2008 set up some aero bars to get as streamlined as possible.

Remember, you are living the Good Life.

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